Rick Owens
France
THE SILHOUETTE I FETISHIZE THIS SEASON IS A HIGHWAISTED ONE WITH A A RIGID ALMOST MILITARY TORSO AND A VOLUMINOUS PELVIS, THE STIFF DRA- PERY ALMOST REFUTING SEXUALITY WITH STATELY VOLUME. DISCIPLINED RIGIDITY ON TOP AND KABUKI SKATER MONK ON BOTTOM. I CALLED THIS COLLECTION MOUNTAIN BECAUSE I LIKE THE ALMOST MYSTICAL SUGGESTION OF A MOUNTAIN AND THE IRRESIS- TABLE URGE TO SCALE IT- CLIMBING TO REACH A PEAK. THE REPEATED MOTIF OF CHINESE SCHOLARS ROCKS ECHOES THIS AS WELL AS HAVING THE TOPOGRAPHY AND IMPRESSION OF A SKULL, THE CLASSIC SYMBOL OF MORTALITY AND STUDY. COLORS ARE BLACK- SOFT BLACKS, CRISP BLACKS, CHEAP SHINY BLACKS WITH RICH THICK BLACKS AND THE DINGY WHITES OF A 1930S OLYMPIC UNIFORM. THERE'S ALSO A FLASH OF A JARRING CELESTIAL BLUE FOR FLASHES OF TIGHTLY CONTROLLED BRITTLE EUPHORIA.